The evolution of Pakistani designer dresses: A fusion of tradition and modernity

The evolution of Pakistani designer dresses: A fusion of tradition and modernity

Pakistan is a land of culture, tradition, festivities and a combination of ethnicities. Pakistani Asian clothes are a meticulous blend of Indian, Persian and Afghani culture as a result of its versatile geographical location. If we take a deeper look at the geographical position of our country, we come to know that it is touched by Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the north east.

We can trace our culture back to different ethnicities, which have resided in the region making Pakistan today. Invaders, settlers and occupiers from all over the world have inculcated a very diverse taste in our culture. Persians, Arabs, Mongols, Turks, Greeks and other Eurasian groups have created a sense of multiplicity in our culture.

Pakistani dresses are a product of the same cultures that drive our traditional values. Our national dress “salwar kameez” goes back to 7000 years ago. It was brought to the sub-continent along the arrival of Muslims in the 12th century. Anarkali is considered to be the epitome of modern day shalwar kameez. Before the downfall of the Mughals in the mid-19th century, Persian culture and clothing had already bled into our culture.

In the early 1900’s, Pakistan had its struggles as a newly born country but the establishment of a culturally appropriate dress was just as important as everything else. Female ideals like Fatima Ali Jinnah and Rana Liaqat Ali Khan gave rise to the Ghaghra, Kurti and dupatta culture. But a huge percentage of Pakistanis especially in the Punjab continued to wear salwar kameez.

Pakistani clothing changed drastically in the 60s with a rise in liberalism and modernism. Western wear like bell bottoms, half-cut trousers and short dresses were on the rise as Pakistan grew towards more of a progressive state under the rule of Ayyub Khan. Soon enough, things took a completely new turn under General Zia Ul Haq. He wanted to inject religion into the society through all means possible.

Zia’s dictatorship was bound to fall sooner or later and it happened as Pakistanis grew fond of Benazir Bhutto as their next leader and a beacon of hope. Benazir’s iconic look during her oath-taking ceremony laid basis to Pakistani fashion industry in the coming years. A bright green silk salwar kameez checked all the boxes when it came to fashion statements. It was bold, ornamental and a ceremonial attire.

The 1990s were characteristic of fashion and style statements. Our designers today are broadly inspired by the culture and ensemble of the 90s. One of the most memorable events included Rizwan Baig styling Princess Diana on her visit to Pakistan. Pakistani fashion was booming in this era as everything was being built from ground up. This decade gave Pakistan its top designers.

The 2000s were all about light breezy fabrics such as lawn and cotton and many brands opened their stores in Pakistan. Khaadi, Alkaram, GulAhmed and Nishat are the most prominent brands of the early 2000s and are still recognized within the country. Innovations were on the peak and everyone was experimenting with what they thought to be a “Pakistani Dress”.

With the rise in fast fashion and social media, where the whole world seems to be connecting. Pakistani designers saw this as a sign to inculcate eastern into western styles. The rise in fusion dresses and modern designs were on the rise. This was bound to happen as the end product of the rich and diverse history of Pakistan. Today, Pakistanis wear everything ranging from salwar kameez to tribal ensemble as well as western wear.

Many brands today like Sapphire, Kayseria, Limelight, Generation and Ethnc have different categories for each type of clothing. With our growing population and ever changing trends, brands have to keep up with the demands of the audience. We see fusion tops paired with jeans which have traditional embroidery on them. We also see a growing trend of matching salwar kameez which was basically popular in the 1980s. Wedding dresses are embellished with traditional as well as contemporary embroidery. Long shirts and fitted trousers with heavy dupattas can be seen throughout.

Pakistani dresses have evolved drastically and now are an amalgamation of all the decades of fashion. Our cultural ensembles are still representative of our ancestral heritage. But day to day wears vary from region to region and are styled differently by various groups of people.

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